It has become increasingly evident over the past decade that production and consumption patterns based on short-lived trends and product life cycles are detrimental to achieving international sustainable development goals. The fashion and apparel industry arguably provides one of the most striking examples for this inherent issue. Recent statistics on carbon emissions and waste disposal underline the urgent need for a fundamental re-evaluation of the fast fashion business model and lifestyle; a global challenge that is of particular relevance for Hong Kong, a city overwhelmed by its waste. Here we take a look at the environmental impact of fast fashion, as well as potential solutions.
Hong Kong’s Waste Problem
In 2020, around 242 tonnes of textile waste were disposed of at Hong Kong’s landfills. Every day. Domestic waste made up two thirds (163 tonnes per day) while commercial and industrial waste made up one third (79 tpd) of the total daily average. Overall, textiles accounted for 2.2% of all municipal solid waste but only 0.5% of recovered recyclables in Hong Kong; equivalent to some 7,300 tonnes over the whole year.
Although the percentage share of textiles may seem relatively low compared to the three major waste categories in Hong Kong – perishables (32.2%), paper (24.5%), and plastics (21.4%) – the broader environmental impact of textile waste is by no means insignificant. By various estimates, the global fashion industry is responsible for 2-10% of greenhouse gas emissions and up to 85% of all textile waste is either landfilled or incinerated, rather than reused or recycled. For Hong Kong in particular, therein lies a major challenge.
The SAR has painted itself into a corner over the past decades with its over-reliance on landfills, which, at the current rate of 11,000 tonnes of new waste added each day, are expected to reach the saturation point latest by the mid-2020s. In addition, waste management was the third major source of greenhouse gas emissions in Hong Kong (7.3%) behind power generation (65.7%) and transport (18.1%) in 2019. Against this backdrop, the transition towards a circular approach to waste management seems imperative, with coordinated efforts needed across all levels – from government policy to corporate responsibility to consumer behaviour.
The Government’s Waste Blueprint for Hong Kong 2035 published last year sets out the goal of “Zero Landfill”, to be achieved through the creation of new waste-to-energy infrastructure, as well as promotion of waste reduction and recycling. One major project in this context is the “Integrated Waste Management Facility” currently under construction at Shek Kwu Chau south of Lantau. Originally scheduled for completion this year, the incineration facility is now projected to commence operations in 2025 with a daily waste treatment capacity of 3,000 tonnes. According to the Government, the HK$18 billion investment will feature “advanced incineration technology” and an air pollution control system that is “more stringent than the corresponding European Union standard.”
Nevertheless, critics of the project have raised questions over the negative environmental impacts of incineration as well as its long-term effectiveness in mitigating Hong Kong’s mounting waste problem. Rather, NGOs and environmental groups have been urging the Government to put a stronger focus on tackling the root cause of the issue, by promoting sustainable sourcing, production, and consumption in the first place and paving the way to a circular economy. As one of the most carbon-intensive industries globally, the fashion industry has an important role to play in this endeavour.
Addressing Fashion Waste(fulness)
At a panel event earlier this month, organised by students from the University of Hong Kong and supported by GIC, industry experts from different backgrounds came together to discuss the current state of fast fashion waste in Hong Kong and potential solutions to the issue. Expert speakers presented their respective approaches to waste reduction; from grassroots initiatives by local NGOs to innovative solutions developed by two German start-ups.
For instance, NRW-based start-up EEDEN has developed a chemical upcycling process for cotton-based clothing without quality loss, enabling brands to implement a closed-loop production system. In early May, the company was one of the finalists of the “Going Circular” competition by the Cologne Chamber of Commerce and Industry. Meanwhile, yoona.ai is a B2B software platform that leverages AI and data analytics to create 3D designs for virtual fashion shows, providing fashion companies with the technology to simplify their value chains and develop their digital presence in the metaverse and NFT marketplace. In 2021, the Berlin start-up successfully applied for the Techstars Accelerator programme.
Innovative business models such as these show how the many-layered (no pun intended) issue of fashion waste can be effectively addressed from a variety of different angles, from sustainable production to digital marketing. Yet, entrepreneurial innovations are only one side of the story. Without greater awareness on the consumption side, reducing fashion waste appears to be a virtually impossible task. Although consumers generally seem to have become more sensitive to sustainability and waste management issues in recent years, there is still a long way to go.
A 2020 survey commissioned by Hong Kong-based charity organisation Redress Asia among 1,000 citizens between 18 and 64 years old found that, while respondents spent 11% of their monthly expenditures on clothes, two out of five respondents only kept clothing items for a year or less, and a third of the clothes in respondents’ wardrobes was never or rarely worn. The most commonly cited reasons for unused clothing were impulse purchases, wrong styles and/or sizes, and simply forgetting about it.
To promote a more sustainable approach towards fashion, Redress Asia has been working with the education sector as well as retailers to raise awareness and to collect and repurpose discarded clothing. Meanwhile, the Environmental Protection Department launched the “Reduce and Recycle 2.0” campaign in 2020 and has been expanding its local “GREEN@COMMUNITY” recycling network across the city. The EPD lists eight types of recyclables which are accepted at community recycling stations and pop-up collection points. As of today, textiles and clothing are not on the list.
Global Strategies for Sustainable Fashion
The fashion industry has long been recognised as an important piece of the puzzle in mitigating climate change. The Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, launched under the lead of UN Climate Change in 2018 and renewed in 2021, defines a set of targets and industry commitments to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050 in accordance with the Paris Agreement. As of now, over 100 signatory companies of the Charter have committed themselves to securing 100% of electricity for their operations from renewables, and sourcing 100% of priority materials with minimal carbon impact by 2030, including by means of closed-loop recycling. In addition, companies pledge to create incentive mechanisms for their suppliers and sub-suppliers (Tier 1 and 2) to implement the target of ‘net zero’ by 2050.
Meanwhile, the European Commission adopted the “EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles” in March 2022. Based on the premise that “fast fashion is out of fashion,” the strategy aims to create a climate-neutral, circular economy, in which textile products sold in the EU are more durable, repairable, and recyclable, and the entire production cycle is energy-efficient and ethical. To help companies take the necessary steps for a successful implementation of the strategy, a “Textiles Ecosystem Transition Pathway” guide is currently in the making and scheduled for publication by the end of 2022.
These industry-specific initiatives and objectives also coincide with new framework legislation such as the German supply chain law, which will take effect from January 2023 onwards. Hence, fashion manufacturers and retailers are operating under an increasingly complex set of regulations and guidelines, and need to have sufficient measures in place to ensure compliance along the value chains. In view of the legislative momentum towards sustainable business operations, many companies have already called time on fast fashion and are moving towards circular solutions. However, effectively reducing fashion waste remains a long-term challenge that will require the united efforts of both businesses and individuals. For Hong Kong, there is no time to waste.
By Hendrik Hillebrecht
Related Links
- HKEPD: Monitoring of Solid Waste in Hong Kong: Waste Statistics for 2020
- HKEPD: Waste Blueprint for Hong Kong 2035
- HKEPD: Greenhouse Gas Emissions in Hong Kong by Sector
- HKSARG: Press release: EPD to develop new waste-to-energy facilities to gradually phase out landfills
- Redress Asia: Clothing consumption, usage, and disposal habits in Hong Kong study
- UNEP: Putting the brakes on fast fashion
- UNFCCC: Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action
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